Note: made from purchased must sourced from Domaine Thenard, whose vines are on the Chassagne side; aged in 67% new oak
Producer note: Gerard Boudot described the 2011 vintage as 'one that I really like
despite the fact that the growing season was anything but easy. The season began exceptionally early and except for some concerns about hydric stress the period through the end of June was largely without much to worry about. That all changed in July as I began to think that we were never going to see the sun again. Even the first part of August was lousy but thankfully things recovered in the second part and we elected to begin picking on the 29th. Potential alcohols were perfectly good without being especially high though we did have excellent acidities, in fact the post-malos pHs were between 3.09 and 3.22, which is fairly low. Perhaps not as low as 1996 but still, you can't argue that there was an acid deficiency in 2011. We did zero lees stirring and we continued with our policy of doing the elevage for 10 to 12 months in wood and then the rest in stainless. As to the wines, I really like the transparency to the underlying terroir plus the wines are beautifully balanced. They may not age quite as well as the 2010s but in terms of overall quality, 2011 is not far off.' In other comments Boudot observed that he and his team are becoming very comfortable with farming biodynamically now that they have several years of experience since the practice was begun in 2008. [Technically the domaine was experimenting as of the 2006 vintage but Boudot explained that it wasn't until 2008 that the all the vineyards were being farmed that way.] Boudot also noted that he has moved to using the Diam cork for the Bourgogne but isn't yet sure whether he will adopt it for any of the other wines in the range. As readers who are fans of the Sauzet wines know, over the last several years I have reported on the various changes for premature oxidation that Boudot has instigated and noted that once again he tinkered with the level of SO2. In 2007 he used between 37 and 38 ppm because he thought that 40 was noticeable. In 2008 however he told me that he raised it to 40 to 45 ppm and he maintained that level for 2009 and 2010 and that will be his goal at bottling for the 2011s. Not surprisingly, at those levels the presence of sulfur is often quite marked. I have not noted the presence of sulfur in every tasting note but readers should be aware that for the next year or two, they are likely to notice it until it has had a chance to completely integrate. (Vineyard Brands, www.vineyardbrands.com, Birmingham, AL; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Lay & Wheeler, www.laywheeler.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, Adnams, www.adnams.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com/food-and-wine, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, From Vineyards Direct, www.fromvineyardsdirect.com, Liberty Wines, www.libertywine.co.uk, DB McCraith, www.dbmwines.co.uk, Claret-E Ltd, www.claret-e.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com and Domaine Direct, www.domainedirect.co.uk, all UK; Sequin & Robillard/Vinifera, www.seguinrobillard.ca, Canada).
Tasting note: An extraordinarily complex nose
that is even more complex than that of the Chevalier, if perhaps not quite as elegant, displays seriously impressive breadth to the ripe aromas of acacia blossom, anise, clove, white peach and subtle pear aromas. There is exceptionally good richness to the broad shouldered and palate staining flavors that display a bit more minerality than usual before culminating in an overtly powerful, saline and explosively long finish that also really fans out on the finish. This is really a lovely effort that combines the elegance of the Chevalier with the muscularity of the Batard.
Note that patience will be required however as this is unlikely to drink particularly well young.
Tasted: Jun 11, 2013
Drink: 2023+評価: 95点